LOOPING OZ
HOME | LOOPING OZ	Perth to Adelaide By Meredith

Day 64 We had intended to head off from Perth today but we had worn out the zip on the tent and the repairer couldn’t have it replaced until midday so we ended up staying in Perth with friends for this last night. Day 65 At long last we were on the road again heading off early in the morning, well 7ish. There was some rain around but we managed to dodge it and have a pleasant trip through lovely green countryside. Alan choose a route through lovely back roads and little country towns to visit the old bike roads of his youth with all the exciting twists and turns he remembered so well. The only problem was that when we went through these lovely old roads on our sedate old bikes, Alan realized that they only felt twisty and tight in his youth because he was riding a Ducati at enormous speeds! Nonetheless it was a lovely ride and we ended up warm and cosy at Alan’s sister and family’s place in Manjimup. Day 66 Everyone in the house was at work and we borrowed a ute and went for a drive to lots of southwest towns, including Margaret River and Augusta. It was a cool and blustery day but we enjoyed the novelty of a car trip and seeing the beautiful, wild windswept coast for which WA is so famous. Day 67 We had a nice quiet day and went out with Alan’s sister to visit the Chowerup cemetery and also to catch up with an old school friend of Alan’s. Day 68 We headed off to Albany and had a lovely ride through windy roads (at last!) with big trees and views. The weather was reasonable too – no rain! We popped into the Honey Mead brewery where Alan picked up a bottle of the good stuff for the evening. In Albany we stayed in a really nice cabin at a caravan park because a storm was expected that night. In the evening we went for a bit of tootle through the old town to take in the sights. Albany is an old historic town with all the old buildings and history you’d expect as well as a wild windswept coast. It’s a lovely place, but a bit too far south for me to stay too long as it can get really cold. Day 69 When we woke up we thought we’d stay in Albany for another day, but when we went to extend the booking it was all booked out. What a bummer! So we decided to head off and see how far we could get. But pretty much as soon as we left the rain started pelting down and we started getting cold and wet, even though we were stopping under trees and large scrub patches for the heaviest parts of the downfalls. So we ended up stopping in Mt Barker which was only 50kms down the track. It was a very quiet day because all the things to do were outside in the cold wind and rain, except for a visit to the Plantagenet winery. So Alan was happy and our books were well read. Day 70 This was a very special day as it was Alan’s birthday, and he was lucky enough to have a sunny day with no rain. It was a bit cold for me, but Alan, being tougher, didn’t find it too bad. We had a very strong tail wind which helped push us along at a good clip too. The only downer was that Alan had a truck push him off the road when it overtook as if he was a skinny little stationary object. We’ve had this happen at other times, but usually with caravans, never with a truck before. We decided to stay in Esperance for two nights because the next day was our 20^th wedding anniversary. The plan was to then dawdle up to Kalgoorlie and across the Nullarbor to Adelaide. But that night we had a phone call from Hendrik, our Guzzi riding mate in Adelaide who said, “Can you make it to the Flinders Ranges for the long weekend?” The next day was Wednesday and as we’d already booked our accommodation we decided that we’d give it a go but leave on Thursday. That way we’d have Wednesday to psych ourselves up for the big jaunt and to finish the little tasks that needed doing. Day 71 We spent Wednesday getting ready for the big adventure. Alan tweaked the bikes and I did the shopping and other essential domestic chores so that we wouldn’t have to spend time on them over the next few days. We also had a lovely day going for some big walks along the foreshore, and getting practically blown into the sea off the old jetty. We went out for a lovely dinner at a restaurant called The Loose Goose and then headed home for an early night, only to find that the people in the room next to ours were having a party and there was some very noisy thing happening with the water pipes. We were a bit wired up for the big trip so all in all it was a pretty restless night. Day 72 We got up at about half past four so that we could hit the road as soon as the sun was up. The first leg was to get to Norseman and have a rest and a snack before the post office opened at nine so we could pick up our mail before heading east. All went to plan until we got to the Post Office and found that the mail hadn’t arrived. So we arranged to have it sent back to Brisbane and then we headed into the wilderness! It was a pretty cool day and we had a very powerful tail wind so we were able to get the old bikes up to 110km/hr for most of the time, so we were hooting along. We became delayed with the upgrade road works which went on for 45kms and had a number of stops, the longest being for about twenty minutes. We did a really solid day’s riding and pulled into a campsite just outside of Midura Pass after 12 hours in the saddle. We’d done 806kms which was enormous, considering the biggest day we’d done before had been 600kms. It was like when you do a big trek through mountains, you have to push yourself a lot but there’s a great sense of achievement when you get there. Day 73 The next day we were up at the same time and headed off just as the sun started peeking over the horizon. The tail wind continued all day and it was pretty cold, I even had my long johns on. There was lovely woodland all the way to the border. We also called into a few of the scenic outlooks so we could have a quick squizz at the dramatic Great Australian Bight. We finally pulled into Wudinna in SA 13 hours after we set off, having travelled an hour in the dark to get that bit further on. We’d done 914kms and were completely pooped. In that 13 hours we’d had about 8 stops, 2 or 3 were 20 or 30 minutes long and all the rest were only for about 10 minutes. So that gives you some idea of how slow our old bikes go, even with a tail wind, compared to more modern bikes! Day 74 We had thought to get up early again to keep hammering through, but in the end we didn’t leave until about 10am. It was a warmer day and a pleasant ride. We eventually got to Warren Gorge in the southern Flinders Ranges in the late afternoon. The camping area is a long spread out area where people can just set up camp wherever they feel like it – behind hills, in gullies or wherever. Being a long weekend there were a lot of people at the Gorge, but most of them were right near the entrance, so we kept making our way further back trying to spot some motor bikes. We were just about to give up when a woman ran out and started waving at us and flashing her legs and behind at us. But as we pulled up closer she realized she didn’t know us and went to run off into the bushes, mortified! Luckily we pulled up quickly enough so we could call out and ask her if she was with the people we were looking for. As things turned out she was, but the others hadn’t arrived yet. So we introduced ourselves and waited for the rest to arrive. They turned up shortly after, and after a good bit of serious reconnoitring a private camp area was selected. But as things turned out, only one other bike turned up, everyone else came in a car of one sort or another – and that bike was a Norton Commando. So if we hadn’t turned up there wouldn’t have been any Guzzis at all. We had a great evening with this group of friendly people talking bikes, trips and tripe around the camp fire. Perfect! Day 75 The next day we left the campsite and headed further into the Flinders ranges to catch up with our friends Hendrik and Di who were out at a little town called Blinman judging the annual Cook Out Back competition. We took our time getting out there as we found the environment just so beautiful. I hadn’t understood how big and different the Flinders Ranges are. They’re just incredible. We’ll definitely be going back to explore them in more depth. Day 76 The next morning Hendrik and Di headed back to Adelaide (they had to WORK the next day!) but we decided to take our time so that we could have a good look at the fantastic Flinders on the way out. We then headed inland so that we could have a look at the Clare Valley on the way to Adelaide the next day. On the way we were quite horrified at the areas where the drought and/or overgrazing had stripped the hills bare so that they looked like red sand dunes. I don’t know how long it will take for that land to recover once the drought breaks but I don’t imagine it will be quick. That night we stayed at lovely historic Jamestown after a pleasant ride and warmer weather. By the time we reached this area the land was not as dry and crops were successfully being grown. Day 77 We headed from Jamestown to Adelaide through the Clare Valley where we visited a few wineries and Alan sent a few cartons home for future enjoyment. It was quite amazing on the way into the Clare Valley to see how green and lush the landscape was compared to the barren dustbowls we’d seen only a short distance before. We arrived in Adelaide in good time to have a pleasant evening sampling some of the wine Alan had found and some organic chocolate that I’d found. Day 78 We had a few chores to be done in Adelaide so Alan started working on the bikes, pulling them apart and rebuilding them while I did the domestic chores. Day 79 Alan kept working on the bikes and I kept doing my thing and found a really nice remedial masseur who loosened out all my kinks from the big ride across the Nullarbor. Day 80 The next day was pretty much the same as the day before but with no massage. Instead I started getting the website ready and went with Hendrik into his newspaper office, and to a radio station where he was recording his weekly bit, which was all really interesting. Day 81 At last the bikes were ready and Alan was able to take them out for a test scoot. In the meantime I went and had another massage and helped get things ready for a party that night. The party was great fun and we met lots of interesting and entertaining people – and stayed up until about 2am. Unbelivable! Day 82 Despite the late night we got up early and headed into the Adelaide Hills for a scoot with a couple of other Guzzisti. The Adelaide hills are just magnificent. They look like something you’d expect to see in an English calendar with rolling hills and lush green paddocks laced by weaving creeks. There is a lot of purple Patterson’s Curse in flower at the moment and it just adds a beautiful accent to the scenery. Not only was the scenery beautiful, but we also went on some of the most twisty and enticing bike roads we’d been on since leaving Queensland. The riding was just terrific and the bikes were running beautifully thanks to Alan’s good work. Our first stop for the day was up at Belhaven to have a look at the vintage bike swap meet being held there. Our next stop was further out along some dirt roads into the back of beyond to watch the motocross championships being held out there. That was very exciting to hear the screaming roar of the bikes and see the skills as they shot around the dirt track. After that we headed to the Bleadsdale winery which has a huge range of delicious wines and the tastings are self serve. Alan was impressed and sent more stuff home! We then headed back through the hills on a lovely road that gave magnificent views from the range across the city and plains below. Day 83 We’re just doing the final bits today to update the website and finalise other bits and pieces before heading further east tomorrow. We’ve had beautiful warm weather here in SA, with only a couple of cool days, so I’m hoping it won’t be too cool in Victoria – I’m such a wimp with my thin Northern blood!

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Al’s Version Travel Notes